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I have found that the best way to get around Italian bureaucracy, at least at the local level, is befriend (or, even better, employ) a well-plugged local. Someone who has relatives and friends inside the comune, the questura, ASL, vigili of this and that, etc. ))

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John's been here for thirty years. His Italy is impeccable, and he knows everybody. We can't go to Rome without running into people he knows. But...this is Italy. If you're in a comune that isn't run like well-oiled machinery, you get a less-than-favorable result. Sadly.

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